Monday, November 22, 2010

The Right Red Lipstick

Many ladies I know tell me they want to wear red lip stick but feel that they cannot "pull it off". My answer is one: wear lip stick with confidence, it is a statement to make when you wear lip stick (wear it loud wear it proud). Two: choose the right red that best suits you. Here are some pointers on finding the right red.

The most important thing is finding a red that compliments your skin tone. If you have a cool skin tone (pinker undertones) then choosing a red with a cool undertone is best (more of a blueish red). If you have a warmer skin tone (more golden or orangeish undertones) choose a lip stick with a warmer undertone (even a browner tone of red).

If you are very very fair my suggestion is to stain the lips instead of having a fresh coat of lip stick (you can create a stain by putting on a coat of lip stick and blotting it off, do this a number of times to create a deep colour). If you have darker skin tones I would suggest to do the same. By staining the lips instead of having a bold fresh coat of lip stick, it will soften the look creating a less shocking effect.

For skin tones that are not super fair, or deliciously deep I suggest a strongly liner lip with a punchy red. Make sure to have a matching lip liner, that is very sharp and line the lips, then fill with the lip stick. Blot once to create a lasting stain, then reapply the lip stick for a fresh look.

Also, I enjoy a deep red for fair and darker skin tones. The combination of a dark deep red and staining the lips can be very seductive to light and dark skin tones. For skin tones in between I enjoy a bright punchy red, making the focus on those luscious lips.

The last piece of advice I would give on wearing red lip stick is to make that the "loudest" part of the make up application. Although it is possible to combine a smokey eye with a red lip, I would suggest to down play the eyes and create focus on the lips. I will usually wear minimal make up on the eyes and cheeks (for example just a winged eyeliner, thicker mascara light contour and blush with a little more emphasis on the highlight). By down playing parts of the other area on the face while still bringing them out (the heavy mascara and highlight) it will make the red lip stick stand out, while also subtly bringing out the rest of the face, creating a flawlessly beautiful face.

Questions, comments, feedback? I would love to hear it. Feel free to post a comment or for more specific question feel free to email me at karleigh@karleighjohnstone.com or find me on facebook (Karleigh Johnstone, I am the only one).

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

My Love of Photoshoots

This post is not specifically about make up. I'm not going to explain how to apply anything, trend or products, I'm going to express why I love what I do.

My favourite way to spend a day is being in a studio doing make up for a photo shoot. I love that there are so many people working together doing what they do best with one common goal... an amazing photo. It is a team that works together and each person has something they know well to contribute, and when everyone involved is passionate about what they do it creates a mood that is indescribable.

A typical photo you see in a magazine is not just about a model putting on clothes and standing to take a picture, there are so many steps from start to finish. There is someone who designs that clothing that the model wears, a designer who designs the jewelry, and another designer who designs the shoes. After someone designs these items there is another person who makes them and chooses the fabric. There are people who take the items and put them together to create the look (a stylist). Usually there is an art director who thinks of the story and mood that they want for the photograph. There are make up and hair people who make the model look the way she does to tell the story the art director wants to tell. A model brings realism in the way they hold their body and the emotions the show in their face. There is the photographer who is there to capture the moment that brings everything together. After the photo is taken there is post production that perfects the photo to ensure the story has been told.

In a photo shoot there are tons of photos, wardrobe changes, different accessories, changes in hair styles or lip stick colours that happen before taking "the" photo. The process is as much a work of art as the final photo and I am so happy when I am part of the creation.

To me a photograph captures the best part of each person involved, the love and passion they put into their work. It is beautiful to see what passion looks like, and the ways people express it.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Trends Through the Decades

From the 1920s until the 1980s there were distinct make up trends each decade. There are most defiantly trends today, however they seem to change per season, not every ten years. Now make up trends are influenced on past trends and mixed and matched to create endless beauty effects.

In the 1920s women wore pale foundation with a very matte finish.  Blush was pink and rose tones and worn lightly and mainly on the apple of the cheek and blended out (creating an "embarrassed" blushing look). Eye shadows were dark neutral colours such as grey, black or plum. Eye shadow was applied to look smokey and create a down-turned eye to create a damsel in distress look. Brows were tweezed thin to be straight at an angle to look worried. Lips were small with a round Cupid's bow in a deep colour (usually a deep plum).

The 1930s was all about being a glamorous woman. Foundation was ivory to pink tones with pastel coloured powders in ivory, mauve, pink green and blue (very pale not electric blue or emerald green by any means). Blush was pale ivory to pink, but a warmed tone closer to reds burgundies even towards yellow (more of a warm gentle sun kissed look). Lips were full and sensual, in the early 30s lip stick was raspberry toned and later in the 30s woman began wearing bright red. Eyeshadow had two different looks, day wear was Vaseline on the eyelids for a glossy look with lots of mascara, in the evening woman wore light iridescent eyeshadow over the entire lid with darker defined creases. Eyes were lined with white liner on the bottom of the eye and heavy mascara was used. Mascara was used to create long thin lashes, not thickness.

Because of the war in the 1940s, women began working and fashion and make up became more masculine. Foundation was natural and lightly powdered. Women often wore only powder and no foundation (money was sparse so make up became a luxury item which meant women only had a select few items in their make up bags). Blush was pink and rose tones mainly on the apple of the cheek and blended toward the temples. Eyeshadow was muted natural colours and mascara was worn with emphasis to the outer lashes. Brows were natural but well groomed. Lips were full and soft with rounded upper lip, in deeper red colours.

After the war was over glamour became women's focus once again. The 1950s was all about the beautiful house wife. Foundation was peachy coloured and more lightly powdered. Blush was pink tones worn on the lower half of the cheek bones creating a defined cheekbone. Eye shadows were blue or white, natural but lighter than the skin colour and the crease was softly defined. Eyeliner was worn and woman began wearing winged eyeliner (not very obviously) and heavy mascara was worn. Lips were full and defined, coral was a popular lip colour. Eyebrows were thick and dark and perfectly shaped.

The 1960s had two distinct looks. There was the hippie flower child look that was free and spirited, very natural but a lot of times hippies painted flowers or peace signs on their face. The other look was the mod look with heavily contoured cheekbones, dark geometric eyes with lots of eyeliner and exaggerate difference between the highlight colour on the lid and contour colour in the crease. Mascara was worn on both the top and bottom lashes and false lashes were very common (on both the top and bottom lases). Lips were nude, pale pink, silvery and white were popular.

The 1970s began to take inspiration from a past decade, the 1920s. Eyeshadow was dark and smokey, slightly down turned (not as drastic as the 20s were). Heavy mascara was worn on both the top and bottom lashes. Eyes were heavily lined in black especially on the inner rim of the eyes. Eyebrows were thin and sometimes bleached. Lips were shaped like the 20s cupids bow but not as small. Dark plum, and dark brown were popular lip colours. As disco became popular, glitter was added to glamorize the look.

The 1980s did not have specific techniques as to where eyeshadow was applied, how the lips were to look or how thin to tweeze the brows. The 80s was about experimenting and trying to express yourself. Make up was every colour known to man, combined in outrageous combinations. The trend in the 80s was to have fun, and many people did.

Looking through pages of magazines it is clear fashion uses past trends to create a feel. Although there are specific trends every season make up is more about what makes you feel the most glamorous. By taking parts of each decades trend each person can apply make up based on what brings out their most beautiful features. Take the time to find what you think is most beautiful and apply it to work for you.

I would love to hear what your favourite decade is for make up, or what part of each decade you like most. Please share your thoughts, and if the way you apply your make up is influenced on trends for past decades.

Questions, Comments, Feedback? I would love to hear it. Please post or you can email me at karleigh@karleighjohnstone.com and I will reply to the best of my ability. You can also find me on facebook (Karleigh Johnstone, I am the only one) or follow me on Twitter (Karleigh_J)

Monday, November 1, 2010

My Favourite Black Eye Pencil

There are many excellent eyeliners on the market but my personal favourite is Mac's Eye Kohl in Smolder (it is available in other shades). This pencil is creamy to put on and is easy to use in many different ways. Here are some of the ways I like to use this product:

  • To line the tarsal plate (inside part) on bottom of the eyelid.
  • Sometimes I rub the liner onto my hand then use a brush to apply a thin line on the top of the eyelid. This makes a softer line than if you use the pencil directly on your eye.
  • apply a thick layer of liner as though I'm lining my eyes heavily, then smudge it out to create a base for a smokey eye (I then add eye shadow on top)- there will be a more detailed post about how I apply a smokey eye... and there will be pictures!
This liner has dense pigment meaning it is solid in colour, and it smudges very well. The only negative thing about this liner is that because it is so creamy it can smudge if you don't want it to... especially if you are out dancing the night away and become. A way to avoid smudging is to press a black eye shadow over top of the liner, it is kind of like you are powdering the liner the same way you powder your face after you put on foundation.

Take a look at MAC Eye Kohl in Smolder for yourself

Do you have questions, comments or feedback. I would love to hear it! If you have specific questions you can contact me directly at karleigh@karleighjohnstone.com or find me on facebook Karleigh Johnstone (I'm the only one).

Stay beautiful!